New parts and lots of work done

Well, we're in the hottest summer on record, here in DFW.  I don't even know how many consecutive days it has been over 100* F, but I believe it's somewhere around 40.  Nights dip down to the balmy 90s.  And yet, I'm making a ton of progress on the Mustang. 

As I mentioned in my last post, my wife and I are teaching swimming classes for the 2nd summer in a row, and the extra money is wonderful; my wonderful wife is putting it all in the Mustang Fund.  So I've managed to pick up a few parts over the last few weeks:

1. Finally found a Duraspark II intermediate harness (from ignition module to distributor) for $5, off of a 75 V8 LTD, I think.
2. Picked up a T-5 Crossmember off of eBay for $92 after shipping.  Not a bad price.  It's the tubular design.
3. Ordered the POR15 Power Mesh (which is basically Fiberglass...that's....it).  
4. Ordered a DIN radio adapter off of Amazon.  It's a plastic box that you can screw under the dash, though I will likely velcro it.  I hate drilling holes in the dash.
5. Ordered the Mr. Gasket #925D distributor recurve springs (see below)

I used the Duraspark II recurve instructions found widely on the web, and swapped the lighter spring with the #925D spring.  This spring requires slightly less force to stretch it the same distance, so it will cause the timing to advance at a faster rate.  In addition, I flipped the "slots" (I am not aware of the technical term), so instead of a 15R, I am now running a 10R.  The 10R is a smaller width slot, so the mechanical advance is smaller (20 degrees vs. 30 degrees for the 15R). 

So, why do this?  Well, I will need to increase the initial advance (you know, turning the distributor) an extra 10 degrees to compensate, and that will greatly benefit the engine.  After this, I reattached everything, and found out one of my spark plug wires was too short.  Awesome, lol.

Then for the tough work...

After a few afternoons working in the garage, I finally got the old 7" rear end completely separated and removed from the car.  After many attempts to finagle the exhaust pipe out from under the car, I gave up and cut it in half.  That leaves me with only the transmission & driveshaft, which are actually just sitting under the car; not actually attached. 

The new rearend has been wire-wheeled down to bare metal (and rust) but I still need to have it rebuilt, and put a new ring & pinion in it.  The stock 2.79 gear will be a bear to drive with a T5.  If I am able to acquire a 4-cylinder T5, I'll use 3.25 gears.

I'll give a concise little time-line of what is left (this might be scary...)

Grind all undercoating/dirt/mud/crap off the underside of the car
Apply POR15 to the engine bay, interior floorpans, and underside of car. 
Follow this with a topcoat of a semi-gloss UV protectant paint, to the engine bay.
Apply stripping chemicals to the fenders/doors/hood/roof/etc. to remove old paint.  Scrape off and begin sanding.  (This means I'll have to remove the glass & headliner.  Dangit)
Rebuild and re-install rear-end; install rear suspension, front suspension, front disc brakes, and rebuild rear brakes.
Install all new brake lines, master cylinder, proportioning valve, and distribution block. Bleed brakes.
Attach wheels/tires
Install sound & heat deadening to interior, inside of doors.
*** At this point, I should have a rolling shell, minus engine and transmission.***
Install T-5 crossmember, clutch pedal bearing kit, and heim-joint Z-bar modification
Install Engine, Transmission, and Exhaust system
Paint.
Rewire the car
Attach miscellaneous electrical items, speakers, etc.
Install interior.

Time to get on it!