8" Rears

There's a lot of info out there about the 9" rears.  When it comes to the 8" rear however, we who are looking for swappable parts and info are mostly out of luck.  I thought I would start compiling some data to assist anyone else that may be trying to find parts, etc.  Here's what I've got so far:

Makes/models/years that had the Ford 8" rear.  Gear ratios are unknown at this time, but expect the usual - >4.00 in the high-end models, <3.00 for the gas-savers, and between 3.00 & 4.00 for most everything else.

FORD	E-100	(1968 - 1974)
FORD	FAIRLANE	(1962 - 1967)
FORD	FAIRMONT	1978
FORD	FALCON	(1964 - 1970)
FORD	FALCON SEDAN DELIVERY	(1964 - 1965)
FORD	GRAN TORINO	(1972 - 1976)
FORD	GRANADA	(1975 - 1978)
FORD	LTD	(1965 - 1978)
FORD	LTD II	(1977 - 1978)
FORD	MAVERICK	(1970 - 1977)
FORD	MUSTANG	(1964 - 1973)
FORD	MUSTANG II	(1974 - 1978)
FORD	PINTO	(1971 - 1980)
FORD	RANCHER	1972
FORD	RANCHERO	(1964 - 1978)
FORD	TORINO	(1968 - 1976)
MERCURY	BOBCAT	(1975 - 1980)
MERCURY	CAPRI	(1970 - 1978)
MERCURY	COMET	(1962 - 1977)
MERCURY	COUGAR	(1967 - 1970)
MERCURY	COUGAR BOSS 302	1969
MERCURY	COUGAR BOSS 429	1970
MERCURY	COUGAR COBRA JET	(1969 - 1970)
MERCURY	COUGAR XR-7	(1967 - 1970)

(Info from Rockauto)

While it's not the best idea to install a used Ring & Pinion, I wouldn't think ill of it if you found a low mileage car that looks like it's be taken care of, and installed a R&P that had minimal wear.

My goal is to find a 3.25 Open Diff ring & pinion, in good shape.  New gears are ~$180, plus a rebuild of ~$200.  Cutting costs is half the battle with my Mustang, and so if I find a good set, I'll use it.

Brakes

Replacing brake lines is easy.

Replacing stock 1966 brake lines (single-bowl master cylinder, all drum brakes) becomes quite a bit more difficult when you have Granada discs up front, a dual master cylinder, and dual exhaust.

I've been working on ordering my brake parts and lines lately, and I've realized how Frankenstein-ish my car is.  It will be a dual-exhaust car, which only came on the 66 HIPO V8s.  It has front discs, which came on some V8s.  It has 10 x 1-3/4" brakes, which are equipped on my 8" rearend.  None of this came on my car, stock, obviously.

In addition to this stuff (which really isn't too bad), is the brake line kit I need to order.  66's never came with dual master cylinders, so it takes a little bit of rerouting when it comes to the lines from the MC to the Distribution Block.  I've decided to purchase 66 Stainless steel, dual exhaust disc/drum brake lines, and I will fabricate what remains to finish off the system.

In addition to this, I've already purchased all new drum components for the rear.  A little tip if you're ordering off of Rockauto.com (my favorite place to order replaceable components), is that the wheel cylinders you want for the 8" rear are the ones with a 7/8" bore (will sometimes say "from 04/1966").

Clutch work and T-5 Stuff

Thanks to my awesomely talented friend, Phillip, I now have the ballbearing clutch pedal conversion kit installed! 



It looks fantastic, and (though it isn't hooked up to anything right now), the feel is just sweet.  Practically no resistance at all! 

Here's a few pictures of the right, left, and bottom.  Notice in the third picture, the washers that were tacked on the inside to provide equal spacing of the brake pedal pivot.








* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *

In addition to this, I received my T-5 adapter I bought on eBay (from a company named SMR),



and began the work on adapting the adapter to the bellhousing.  Below are the pics of the modifications necessary to adapt the 1967 inline-6 bellhousing to the T-5 adapter.

First, I installed the plate to my bellhousing using the two flathead screws on the left side of the plate.  One of the holes on the top right (the one closest to the concentric ring) needs to be transferred to the bellhousing, so I used a transfer punch to locate it.





Then I started drilling.  Unfortunately after this step, I found that I screwed up drilling the hole out (really should have started with a smaller pilot hole.  Completely my fault...  But, I created the hole and enlarged it to the correct 15/32" size.



Once that hole was done, it was time to locate the special "inline 6" bolt hole.  This hole is not transferred from the adapter - you will have to find the spot by yourself.  The reason, as seen in this thread, is due to the countersunk hole on the bottom right extending over the edge of the bellhousing.  So, someone once recommended drilling a hole in the thin part of the adapter, and putting a bolt & nut on there that is just long enough without sticking through the nut into the bellhousing.



The result (which I'll have to get more pics of later), is that the adapter is held onto the bell via 4 fasteners, one on each corner, or so.



Last bit of an update before I'm off for the night; I found out I was incorrect in putting the gasket on the axle before the axle flange...It goes on afterwards  Not a big deal, however, since I can just cut it off and put it back on the outside...perhaps use something sticky to keep it in place while attaching, and then it doesn't matter.

Next steps for the Restoration involve getting the new brake lines for the new rear end (dual exhaust kit) which is going to set me back a little more than $100.  But, at the same time.....there's a brand new 2V Converted Inline 6 head on eBay right now, and I really want it.  But dang it's expensive.

Wheel bearings on!

I bought a press yesterday afternoon, from Harbor Freight.



So I finally got to install my wheel bearings.  Sorry, but I am not paying a shop more money to press on bearings, than it costs to buy a press.  It's not even hard...nor did it take more than 10 minutes.  Anyway, off my soapbox...

It's fairly straightforward, if you want to buy a HF press and do it yourself (the 12-ton is just barely tall enough, for 65-66 axles).  The first thing you do is to make sure the axle gasket goes on first, followed by the loose axle flange (you'll see it in the pictures.  Next, with the bearing race surface clean, slide the axle bearing down the axle until it stops.  No need to jam it down tight or anything...just let it sit.  I forgot to put my axle gasket on, and had to slightly cut it to get it on there...not a big deal but annoying.

Now, turn the axle upside down and slide it onto the press so that the bearing sits against the arbor plates, like so:



Make sure the press is centered, and begin pressing down.  It would not hurt to place a thick, flat piece of metal between the press and the axle for good force distribution.  Center it as best as possible. 

Now, press down, until the bearing rests against the bearing seat (a lip that prevents it from going any farther. 

I like to turn the whole axle 180* at this point, and re-press slightly, to make sure it is evenly seated.

Next, repeat the operation with the bearing race, that should have come with your bearing. 



Once done, thoroughly go over the axle bearing and retainer to make sure there are no gaps.  You want it seated perfectly.  Here is the completed assembly:



Don't worry about the creepy noises coming from the press, by the way.  That's normal.

Now on to paint the housing!

Rebuilding the 8-inch rear end, Part 2

Thought I should give an update, now that the parts have been ordered and cleaning is nearly complete.

The total cost of the parts, shipped & taxed where necessary, was $92.15.  All parts except the Brake Hardware Rebuild Kit were purchased from Rockauto.  A breakdown of what you'll need:

2 Backing Plate Gasket - Outer ($1.14)
2 Backing Plate Gasket - Inner ($1.40)
2 Axle Bearings ($34.56)
2 Axle Seals ($19.64)
1 Brake Hardware Rebuild Kit ($7.55, from O'Reilly's)
1 set of Brake Shoes ($15.39)
1 Shipping from Rockauto ($12.47)
**dang, I just realized I forgot to buy wheel cylinders!**

After going to get my axle bearings pressed off, I found that our local O'Reilly machine shop no longer does this; they ship it off to Missouri to have done.  Ridiculous... So instead, I plan on calling up a friend of mine who works at a shop, and ask him if I can come by and get these bearings pressed on.  In addition to this, he's planning on working on my Clutch Pedal Bracket Support, which I'll post on a little more later this week.  Hopefully I'll get to knock out 2 birds with one stone.

Right now - quickly, before my parts all arrive - I'm finishing off the sanding, and getting the parts prepped and painted.  The idea at the moment is to paint the axle housing black, with the third member red.  The drums will also be painted, but I'm thinking just a "hammered steel" type finish; not a crazy color like red or anything.

As I mentioned a few posts ago, I got a lot of sanding equipment for this very reason, such as a full face shield and earmuffs.  I used them again today when I finished sanding down the axle housing, and began on the brake brackets (is that what they're called?).  I tell you, it's a lot of work getting everything down to bare metal but it should pay off in the prevention of rust down the road.  I'll upload some pictures in part 3 of this little miniseries.

That brings me to one last point before I head to bed...painting.  I've long debated my decision / ability to paint, and after spending a little time doing research today, I think I'm leaning more towards the "set up a paint booth and paint it myself" approach.  While it will be expensive - probably close to $1000 counting all expenses - it's far cheaper than spending several thousand to pay someone else to do it.  One of the biggest costs associated with painting is not the paint, but rather the prep work & post work (wet sanding, etc.).  Time, I have. 

Rebuilding the 8-inch rear end, Part 1

Several years ago, I bought an 8" rear end from a guy, and it has sat, pretty much untouched, ever since.

I decided it's time to clean this thing out and rebuild it myself, with the exception of the third member.  So, last week I hooked up the wire wheel to the angle grinder and went to town.

This week, after doing some research, I began working on removing the axle bearings, seals, etc.  A friend and I had pulled the axles a few years ago, but the axle seals were still inside the housing, and were not budging.  After several hours though, they finally pried loose, and cleanup began. 

Here's how the axle housing looked, before using Simple Green Max degreaser to clean up the inside.  I'd guess this crud was 1/8" thick.



After using the Simple Green and several rags...

From All Mustang Pics

Not all the way clean, but much better.

I also cleaned up the axles using Simple Green, and gave the axles a very light sanding to remove some of the oily varnish sludge gunk stuck on them.  Sanding the housing was quick with a wire wheel, but not very accurate.  Using a foam sanding block took care of the curves and tight spots, but was expectantly slower.  Now to go get these bearings pressed off, and new ones pressed on.